Carnival in Cologne

On Rose Monday, I was in Köln for the Rosenmontag (Rose Monday) Parade. This was part of a slightly larger trip which included Karlsruhe and Stuttgart-  I’ll talk about those in another post, because Cologne during Carnival is more than enough for one post.

First, a brief administrative note-  I took more than 600 pictures, and I whittled them down to around 180 or so that were worth sharing with anyone.  From those, I picked 32 for this post.  If you want to see the ~150 that aren’t in the post, they’re in this gallery over here.

Second, there are a few things to bear in mind while looking through these pictures:

1) The best thing about the Carnival season for a big kid like myself is the costumes.  There were so many costumes-  I noticed a high count of bees, giraffes, and pirates.  The people who wore full body fur suit costumes had the right idea though.  The temperature wasn’t bad, but it was windy. Unless you were standing directly in the sun, it was kind of cold.

2) If I ever go to one of these things again, I totally need a costume with a helmet.  Flying bars of solid chocolate hurt when they hit you in the head.  Even a packet of Haribo gummi bears can be unpleasant if you get beaned right in the forehead.  The candy was being thrown for hours, and after a while I started to shrink back like a kicked puppy any time someone made a throwing motion.  The kids standing on either side of me made out like bandits from all the noggin-bounce candy castoffs, though.

3) These pictures actually span two parades.   When I arrived in Cologne on Sunday afternoon, there was a different parade going.  This parade featured more children, and wasn’t quite as large as the official parade on Monday, but it led to almost a quarter of the more than 600 pictures I finished the weekend with.

On to the pictures!  The first one is an off-duty Superman, looking like a 70s pimp with that furry coat.  I think the guy next to him is wearing a Batman costume, but I can’t be sure.  This costume is particulary daring with the chilly weather.

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Next up, a few Gnomes.  The Gnomes aren’t what I love most about this photo, though.  It’s the walking shower behind them… the curtain, the faucet… I think the shower costume is both creative and hilarious.

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One of the many giraffe costumes I saw.  I can pretty much guarantee that this guy was not nearly as cold as I was.

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This next couples costume won’t make much sense to my American friends without context, but I spotted it right away-  there’s a series of very cute commercials here for Kinder Riegel milk chocolate.  I’ve embedded an example below, so you can see what the costume is all about.

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When it’s time for lunch, you can’t go wrong at a snack bar with thiscast of characters.

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During the first parade, I was particularly amused by this entire family of bears, each equipped with his or her own Honig (honey) pot with which to catch candy thrown from parade floats.

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Another chocolate-inspired group costume.

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There were so many great costumes that I put nine more into an image collage.  The full sized individual shots of each of these are in the gallery linked near the top of this post.

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On Monday morning, the parade started at 10:30, but I found a place closer to the end of the parade route than the start, so the streets actually looked this empty at first.  Also, you can see that the windows on the parade route are often boarded up.  I’m not sure if this is because of drunken revelry or if it’s because of flying chocolate bars, but this is a pretty common sight along the parade route during Carnival.

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The empty streets didn’t last too long though, and before long there was plenty to see.

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There was a lot of NSA/Google/Facebook/Data-Security themed stuff.

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I made these six pictures into a collage because they were all together, and there’s a theme here.  The green wigged, blind-folded people have eyes on their hands to represent the constant watching of data leeches like Facebook.  I think the NSA camera stick holders in the previous picture were also with this group.  Plus the green wigs were conga-lining, which was kind of fun.

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I don’t know what this one was supposed to represent, but I thought it was neat looking.

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I have no earthly idea what the story is with this group.

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The German on this golden knight translates to “Your cellphone, your freedom.”  I’m not entirely sure what they meant by that, but I think it was another one talking about data security.

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There were lots of marching band and drum corps types of groups in various ornate uniforms…

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…and one group playing marching washboards.

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Some of the floats were single-rider deals, like this one.  The head was turning back and forth.

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More marching bands…

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More single-rider floats…

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I think after about six hours of playing the same song, you start to go a little crazy.  Like this guy.

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Once again, I have no clue at all what the deal is with the giant yellow heads that all have soul patches and deerstalker caps.   I bet they’re heavy though.

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There were lots of horses in the parade, but these two had the longest manes of any horse I’ve ever seen.  Usually, parade horses have their manes trimmed very short- not so with these two.

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The Zugordners (parade marshals) were utterly fascinating to watch.  They all had these bright red jackets with the little black hats that were vaguely English Bobby shaped.  I have no idea what they actually did, though, because the parade sort of moved itself along without any special pointing from this guy or his brethren.

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…and on to the floats.  The German on this one reads, “Fun Ghetto.”  Inside the jail is someone drinking, a pair of humping dogs, and other forms of caricatures of fun.

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I’m not sure if this one had a meaning other than just being Carnival-themed.

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This next one might need some parsing from my German friends.  I think the German text is supposed to translate to “Upgrade you will.”  The goat has a rocket strapped to his back.  And Yoda’s wearing a scarf for what I’m pretty sure is a local sports team.   I don’t really get the full meaning.  Any locals care to fill us in?

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This one says “The Death Star, Washington” on the side.   There were a few floats that had anti-American sentiment.  All the NSA spying stuff has really caused some friction between our nations.

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See?

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About an hour after the parade ended, I walked over to the courtyard between the train station and the Cathedral.  There were still an incredible amount of people moving through the city back to the train station.

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I was wondering how the city recovered from something like the Rose Monday parade so quickly, and now I know.   As soon as the parade was done, the cleaning crews came out.  A veritable army of people with brooms gathered the majority of the debris into small piles, and another group came by with giant vehicle-sized vacuums.  That giant white tube is a huge vacuum, sucking up piles of garbage from the street.  I’ve never seen anything like it before, but I think it’s pretty nifty.

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Have you ever been to a Carnival Parade?

Bürgerfest 2013

40-jahre-buergerfestEvery second year,  Regensburg has a citywide party called Bürgerfest.  The word Bürger translates to ‘citizen,’ which is why you can actually refer to residents of Hamburg as Hamburgers, a fact which will never stop being funny to me.

This weekend was the 40th Bürgerfest.  I’m not actually clear on why it’s only 40 years, given that the city has been here since roughly the 12th century.  I choose to believe that it’s honoring me, since I’m here for this one and I’m also 40 this year.

Bürgerfest closes down many of the main streets to traffic and for a three day span, Friday to Sunday, there are food tents, stages with bands all over the city, and weird street entertainment.   I’m not kidding about stages all over the city, by the way-  I kept finding them tucked into strange corners while walking through the city.    According to the schedule, there are at least 25 stages.  I’ll come back to the music later.

Many of the city’s restaurants have tents set up to sell their own ‘portable’ version of the food.  Every restaurant and pub in town has their own Bürgerfest specials on offer.

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The point of the festival is to celebrate the city and all of its sister cities.  Regensburg is “twinned” with cities all over the world.  Here’s the list of cities, as far as I know:

  • Tempe Arizona, United States
  • Aberdeen, Scotland
  • Brixen, Italy
  • Clermont-Ferrand, France
  • Pilsen, Czech Republic
  • Odessa, Ukraine
  • Qingdao, China
  • Budavar (part of Budapest, Hungary)

The twinned cities all have banners that are put up during the festival:

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I took a whole lot of pictures of the strange street entertainment, but I’ll leave most of them out.  Here’s a man on a unicycle juggling scimitars to tide you over.

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…and i’m not really sure what this is.  Heck, I’m not even entirely sure that the morphsuit is part of the entertainment.  This might just be an unusually attired spectator…

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Speaking of unusually attired, it’s not every day that you get followed down the street by an inflatable zombie bowling pin.  I’m just sayin’.

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One of the highlights to Bürgerfest is the tremendous variety of food available.  For example,you can get tiny donuts or big donuts.  The tiny ones are about the size of a quarter, from a stand called “Marge’s Mini Donuts.”  I’m not even kidding.  The big ones… well, they’re really big.

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Also, this is Germany.  That means there’s ice cream to be had.   This would be true even without Bürgerfest, though.  I’ve seen Germans eating ice cream at eighteen degrees below zero.  It’s part of their cultural identity.

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There’s also plenty of cultural food.  For example, this is räuberspieß, which is basically meat and dough on a stick, deep fried in oil. It’s delicious and it looks like this:

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When you’re done with your räuberspieß, hold onto the stick.

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The stick is handy for fighting vampires.  Also, it’s useful for navigating these crowds-  if someone gets in your way, you can poke them in a non-critical organ and they’ll move out of the way.

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By the way, here’s a helpful hint:  Go early.  The crowd in the picture above was around 7pm.   The crowd in the picture below was closer to 1pm.

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I mentioned the live music earlier.  Sometimes it’s horrific pop/folk music.  These two guys sounded a bit like they were gargling marbles to me.

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These two were tucked into an alcove, and if not for the sound of the double-bass, I wouldn’t even have spotted them.

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There’s also this type of band.  Sometimes these are the best ones.

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Lastly, but certainly not least, there’s plenty of beer to go around.  This is Germany, after all.  It’s not a party here without beer on tap.

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Have you ever been to a Bürgerfest or a similar city festival? Does your city have twinned “sister cities?”