How Not To Travel

Usually, when I decide to travel to a new place, I do fairly exhaustive research.  I look at information about what other people like to see in the city.  I check for walking tours or hop-on/hop-off tours.  I confirm information about the public transportation.

Most importantly, I do something that I’ve been doing before trips to new places for many years.  I make a list with three categories:

  1. Stuff I absolutely must see while I’m in this new city.  This category is the stuff that I’m most excited about. This category often includes the reason I went to the new city in the first place.
  2. Stuff that I really want to see.  This stuff isn’t quite as important as the MUST SEE category, but it usually includes a lot of interesting things that I’m glad I saw after the trip is done.
  3. Only if there’s time.  This is stuff that seems interesting to me, but if I don’t get to it, I won’t be too sad about it.

I’ve been using this three tier method for a lot of years, and when I’m traveling with a friend, I have them do the same list.  More often than not, we manage to get ALL of the must-see stuff, most of the really-want-to-see stuff, and occasionally, we even get to the only-if-there’s-time level.  Having things tiered this way makes it very easy to figure out a day by day plan without it becoming too overwhelming or stressful.   This planning method has always worked very well for me while traveling, and I should know better than to stray too far from it.

Yesterday, I tried something different.

I’ve been feeling kind of stuck lately- I don’t travel as much in January and February because it’s fricking cold and I don’t usually want to go take pictures of things when the sky is full-gray and I’m bundled up like the Michelin man.  Climbing hills to castles is not fun on snow and ice.

In order to combat the feeling of stuck-ness, I decided recently that I would try to visit some of the really close towns, places that I can get to in about an hour on the train.  A Bavaria Ticket costs me 22 Euros, and that covers the train there and back as well as any bus lines or public transportation in the destination city, anywhere in Bavaria.  The idea here is that if I day-trip to a new place, I don’t need to muck about with getting a hotel, packing a bag, and so forth.  I just go, wander around a new city for the day, then come back.

Why did this backfire?

  • It failed because I chose Ingolstadt as my first foray out this way.  Ingolstadt is perhaps the most boring city in Bavaria.  The most interesting things about Ingolstadt are that the Illuminati was founded there and the monster was created there in Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein.  Neither of these things is easy to see in a touristy way on a day trip.  Oh, and Audi has a factory and tour there, but I didn’t think to get information about that before I left Regensburg.
  • It failed because I went on a Sunday.  Everything is closed on Sundays.  Bus routes are cut down to once in hour in many routes on Sundays, which made getting around town kind of a pain in the ass.
  • Above all else, this little day trip failed because I didn’t prepare for it.  It failed because I didn’t do my list this time.  Ingolstadt doesn’t have many old buildings because it was significantly bombed out in World War II.  The few remaining old buildings look pretty nifty, but since I didn’t do my research before the trip, I didn’t know where to look.

This is the most interesting thing I managed to see in Ingolstadt yesterday:

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That’s directly opposite the Bahnhof.  I spent the rest of the day using the tediously slow Sunday bus routes to try to find cool things to see.  I didn’t even manage to figure out where Ingolstadt’s “Altstadt” or Zentrum (city center) was.

I did have a successful conversation with a passerby who spoke no English, so I feel like that was a win, but I learned a great deal on this trip about what doesn’t work for me when I travel.

What lessons have you learned in your life about what NOT to do when traveling?

Mush, Mush I Say!

dogsleds00Up until this week, I didn’t know that the World Sleddog Association (WSA) was a thing. It is, though, and this weekend I went to the WSA’s 2013 European Sled Dog Championships. The three-day event was being held this weekend, in a town near the Bavarian forest, and within spitting distance of the Czech Republic and Austrian borders of Germany. All credit goes to my partner-in-crime, Jenny, for spotting this one in the upcoming events calendar. She asked earlier in the week if I wanted to tag along, and it took me all of about two seconds to realize that Dogs! Racing! While pulling sleds! would be a fantastic thing to see. Of course I was interested!

Fast forward to eight o’clock Sunday morning and Jenny, her boyfriend Robert, and I got in a car and drove slightly more than an hour and a half to vaguely nearby Haidmühle. This is them:

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Before I get on with the pictures of cute doggies, let me share some of the things that I learned about sled dog racing today. I never knew any of this until today.

  • All of the approximately 2,000 dogs competing in this type of race are purebreds. The main breeds used are Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute, Samoyed, Alaskan Huskies, or a breed called Der Grönländer, which I think translates to Greenland Dog, i.e. another type of Husky.
  • The Samoyeds look like enormous fluffy racing pillows.
  • The sleds used to be made of wood, but nowadays they use updated materials like titanium and so forth.
  • The dog teams can be anywhere from a single dog pulling a skier to eight and twelve dog teams.
  • The sport is commonly referred to as Mushing. The human part of the team is called a Musher. The term Mush comes from “Marche,” which is the french command to get the dogs running. Non-French competitors hardly ever say Mush, though. Some people say hike or hup. We heard a lot of interesting things in the native languages of the various Mushers.
  • In a standard eight dog team, the first two dogs at the front of the line are called Lead Dogs. They respond to the commands of the Musher, find the trail, and set the pace. The next two dogs on an eight dog team are called Swing Dogs. They just follow the lead dogs, help the team corner, and help the Leads set the pace. The third pair on an eight dog team are called Team Dogs, and they’re primarily just horsepower. Er, dogpower. The fourth and final pair of dogs on an eight dog team are called Wheel Dogs. They’re positioned directly in front of the sled are usually the strongest dogs on the team.
  • There are two types of races- short races that are only a few kilometers, and longer distance races. The long distance races can be upwards of forty or fifty kilometers. One Musher mentioned that 42 kilometers is a standard number.
  • Because dogs tend to react to other dogs, sled dog races don’t have a single start for all the competitors. The dog sled teams are given a start time, and they have to be at the starting line on time, to the minute. A new team starts from the gate roughly once a minute for each category, with short breaks between groups. The teams compete with their times, like a marathon runner would.

That’s the basics of the sport as I understand them. Let’s move on to the pictures!

This is both the start line and the finish line. There were very clear paths for both outbound and inbound dog teams.

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This was a truly international (but European) event. We saw dog sled teams from Poland, Russia, Austria, Germany, the Czech Republic, and a few others. Plus there were flags to remind you of who might be competing.

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I mentioned before that there were teams of various sizes. This next picture is a one dog and skier combo. This picture was taken approximately three-fourths of a second before the skier wiped out. Oops!

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There were a large number of competitors who were on sleds with a two dog team. They looked a lot like these next two pictures. You’ll notice a little bit of leg action from the human in the second picture. That’s because there are times that the humans run behind or alongside the sled, or kick to help give the team some forward momentum.

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This next picture is my favorite one from the entire day. It appears to be an eight dog sled team, but if you look carefully, there’s one more dog- riding inside the sled itself. I’m not sure if this was an injured dog, or if this is how they get new dogs used to the trail. I have absolutely no idea why that last dog is inside the sled instead of in front of it, but as this team passed us, the dog stuck his head out alongside the sled, looking for all the world like any other dog sticking his head out of a car window. Oh, and there’s one other detail- the green number on the Musher’s chest signifies that they were on a long distance race. Maybe the last dog is the sled dog equivalent of a spare tire?

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Here’s a six dog team, moving at a pretty good clip.

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As I said earlier, the dogs were all purebreds. They had a great deal of character, though. This frisky little guy had just finished a run. He’s still tethered up to his team, who seem to be a lot more relaxed than he is.

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This next dog is a Samoyed. Like I said before, they look like enormous fluffy racing pillows. Also, most of the Samoyeds had funky little racing socks on their feet. I guess the snow and ice hurts their paws. I never got a clear explanation of why they were wearing the little dog booties.

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A quick aside about the audience for an event like this- there are a lot of families that attend this type of event. And for the record, whoever the first person was to figure out how to make a stroller-sled combination is a freaking genius:

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…and this kid was cracking me up. His caption basically reads, “I’m on a sled. I have a sandwich. Pull me or fear my wrath.”

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Lots of people also brought their non-purebred, non-racing dogs. Those who brought dogs to not-race were reminded repeatedly by the race announcer that the non-racing dogs needed to stay twenty meters away from the start line at all times, because the racing dogs are pack animals and will see your precious little teacup poodle as prey. Many of the non-racing dogs wore amusing sweaters or other cold-weather gear. Many of them were very cute.

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This guy was driving along on a snowmobile, pulling a big flat thing along the track. I guess it’s the sled dog track equivalent of a Zamboni. Bonus points for riding it side-saddle, I guess.

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This particular race gave us a lot of chances to walk through the camp areas where the racers and their dogs were staying when they weren’t racing. Lots of dogs sleeping, playing, or peeing. Seriously, the entire place was a yellow snow minefield. There were also Mushers maintaining their sled equipment, like this guy.

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I have digressed a bit. Let’s go back to the race areas. The dogs have to be very carefully handled before the race begins. They’re excited dogs! They want to run and play! Most of them try to lunge forward well before being told to go. They’re very energetic.

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At places where the track is not fully roped off, there are warning signs. This sign basically says the very obvious, ‘CAUTION- Dog Sledding Track. Don’t Stand here!’

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It’s good advice, too! I’d hate to accidentally get run down by these critters!

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Let us also remember that despite being purebred, well-trained racing animals, these are still dogs. Sometimes dogs don’t want to do what they’re told. This Samoyed was the star of the day, because he didn’t agree with the direction of the race. At all. I have several photographs of the dog and Musher trying to go in different directions. This was pretty hilarious, actually.

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…and sometimes, it’s the human that screws up. This guy went a good five or six meters on his ass, with the dog looking at him as if to say, “Get up! We have a race to run!”

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After five or six hours of this, the last of the dog sled teams started their race, and we packed it in and headed back to Regensburg. This was a lot of fun, but I may never be warm again. Also, the prevailing joke of the day was, “Don’t eat the yellow snow!”

Seriously, I’ve never seen so much yellow snow in all my life.

Have any of you ever been to a dog sled racing competition?

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Ain’t No Party Like A Tollwood Party

I rang in the new year with Hanley and Esther at the awesome 2012 Tollwood Silvester Party.  Hanley wrote about it in her own blog, so if you read both of us, this will seem like a bit of a repeat.

The Tollwood Winter Festival takes place at Theresienwiese,  a 420,000 square meter (4,500,000 sq ft) space in the city of Munich.  This is the same space that holds the world famous Oktoberfest each year.    Tollwood is also a summer festival with a tremendous amount of live music-  the 2013 Sommerfestival lineup so far includes ZZ Top and the Pet Shop Boys.  I’ll probably wind up there at some point.

The Winterfestival wraps up with a giant Silvester party on December 31st.  There are four giant tents with bands and DJs.  There’s another tent that is nothing but various types of food.   The various tents are on the outer edges of a vast open space where people can congregate to view fireworks.  We’ll get to that.   This is the view in from the front gate.

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When I say tent here, I’m not talking about the little things you use to go camping, I’m talking about things that are larger than the building my apartment is in.  This is inside the tent for the first band we watched, the Stimulators.  You can see the roof of the tent sloping up behind the giant sphere- these things were huge.

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We also saw a pretty nifty band called Jamaram in one of the other tents.  They’re a pretty large group.

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I hadn’t heard of them before this outing, but a few of their songs were catchy enough to remain stuck in my head for several days afterward.  “Oh My Gosh,” for example-

We spent the last hour in a tent watching Rockomotion, a classic rock cover band.  Pretty much everything they played was recognizable.  They even did Hip To Be Square, and the last song they played right before midnight was The Time Warp.  If you search for Rockomotion on Youtube, you’ll see lots of clips of them doing well known songs.

The band stopped a few minutes before midnight to allow everyone time to get out of the tents and into the big central open area, and then there were fireworks.  Lots of fireworks.  The Theresienwiese is in the center of an access road called Bavariaring, and there were fireworks visible for 360 degrees-  all along the Bavariaring.  The fireworks went on for more than twenty-five minutes.  Some of it was official Tollwood fireworks, to be sure, but some of it was just the German people setting off their own fireworks.  This was my second New Year’s Eve in Germany, and I realize now that the Germans are kind of insane when it comes to fireworks.  They use a lot of them, they don’t much care where they’re pointed, and they don’t seem to worry about their own safety.

It sure makes for a hell of a show, though. Imagine twenty-five uninterrupted minutes of fireworks at the quantity and  frequency of what you can see in the video below. (The video is only three seconds long because I thought my phone was set to still pictures, not video.)  The Tollwood party was great fun, even if I did get the flu while I was there.  Where did the rest of you ring in the new year?

Ein Jahr

As of today, I’ve been in Germany for one year of a three year commitment.   It’s been a hell of a year.  When I posted about being here for four months back in March, I had a few items that I listed as to-do items.  Let’s see how I did:

Have basic conversations in German:  On a very basic level, I can do this.  I can introduce myself, ask where someone is from, and inquire about basic information.  I have the vocabulary of a two year old native, but I’ve learned a lot.

File my German taxes from 2011: I did this in late March.  In July, the Finance Authority sent me a letter asking for more documentation, and I returned the requested document right away.  In October, they finally sent me a followup, and a small refund a few days later.  I am now the proud owner of a German Steuernummer (tax ID number.)  It only took seven months!

More blogging: I’ve settled into a pattern of posting every Monday.  Coming up with ideas for new posts is difficult sometimes, but for the most part I’ve always got something new to say.  Sometimes I have a rush of ideas and I post a little bit more frequently, but I post at least one new entry every week, always on Monday mornings.   WordPress.com’s scheduled post feature is a tremendous boon for the frequent traveler.

More travel:  Holy hell, success!  Of the thirteen cities I mentioned back in March, I’ve been to seven of them.  This year has been an amazing year for travel.   Every new city is logged as a ‘Category’ on this blog.  There’s a dropdown on the right-hand column to view entries about them.  In 2012, I’ve gone to seven new countries and countless German cities.

  • Edinburgh, Scotland
  • London, England (Seeing London has been a goal of mine for more years than I can recall.)
  • Barcelona, Spain
  • Amsterdam, Netherlands
  • Prague, Czech Republic
  • Vienna, Austria
  • …and so much of Germany already:  Berlin, Bochum, Bruhl, Cologne, Erfurt, Frankfurt, Kempten, Mannheim, Munich, Nuremberg, and of course, Regensburg.

Eat Less McDonald’s:  Mild failure.  It’s still far too easy to slip into McD’s when I’ve been out late or have to eat something after German class.  I try my best to keep it to a minimum, but I still eat far too much of this because of the convenience.

Acquire a traditional Bavarian outfit complete with Lederhosen: Yup, I did this.

I originally wanted to list a whole lot of the things that I’ve accomplished this year, but I did that on the Four Months post and again on the Six Months post, so I won’t do that.   Here’s a few other highlights that I wanted to mention though:

I Went To WEBMU: WEBMU is the “Whiny Expatriate Blogger MeetUp.”  The rules for membership are that you have to live in Germany and blog in English.  The people in the group are a heap of fun, and we had a great weekend in Berlin.

I Met Other Bloggers: Expatriate blogging is a very social thing. Between WEBMU and my naturally social nature, I met many other bloggers (and their non-blogging spouses) in person this year. Here’s an incomplete list of them:
Riayn in Hamburg, Heather in Nürnberg, Mandy in Berlin, Sarah in Hamburg, Snooker In Berlin, Ian in Hamburg, CN in Heidelberg, and last but not least, Cliff and Sarah here in Regensburg.  (Alex, you’re totally on my “Want to meet this person” list for 2013.)

I Tried A German Theme Park: I went to Phantasialand, a pretty well known German theme park.  Living in Florida spoiled me for theme parks, but this was still a lot of fun.

I Listened To  A Percussion Show In A Cave: The header on this one is pretty self explanatory.  The cave, the Tropfsteinhöhle Schulerloch, is near Kelheim.

I Drank Beer Brewed By Monks:  The Weltenburg Abbey is not far away.  The dark beer is delicious,  the grounds are beautiful, and the boat ride up the Donau river from Kelheim is picturesque.  Not a bad way to spend a Saturday.

I Watched More TV and Movies In German:  I have been trying to learn German, and one of the things that helps this is to use German television, radio, and movies.   I’m quite fond of watching How I Met Your Mother and Futurama in German.  I also watched The Lion King, The Muppets, Men In Black 3, and Ice Age 4 all auf Deutsch.  I was even able to clearly follow the plots of all of them, even though I missed quite a few of the verbal jokes.

It’s pretty hard to sum up an entire year in a single post- that’s what the entire Blog has done.  It’s mind-bending to think that I’ve been here for a year already, and that I’m a third of the way done with my time here.

I wonder what my next year has waiting for me!