The Regensburger Domspatzen

One of the things I’ve wanted to do since I arrived in Regensburg was to see a performance- any performance- of the Regensburger Domspatzen.

The Domspatzen (literal translation= Cathedral Sparrows) is a world famous boy’s choir based at St. Peter’s Cathedral, the tall pointy church known to Regensburg locals as The Dom.  The choir was founded in the year 975 by Bishop Wolfgang of Regensburg, and they’ve been present here ever since.   The institution is not just a choir-  it’s a boarding school for boys aged 10–19 and a private secondary school with emphasis on musical education.

The Domspatzen sing both regular mass services as well as concerts around Germany.  Jenny also was curious to see them sing, so we went to the Holy Mass services on the Sunday before Christmas.   Advantage:  It’s free, at least until the collection plate comes by.  Disadvantage:  It’s a Roman Catholic Holy Mass, so there’s a ton of ritual, chanting, kneeling, and the swinging of incense which is catnip for migraines, as I discovered.  I’ve been to Catholic mass services before, and my ability to follow the ritual was about the same in German as it is in English.  Still, it’s a good way to see the Domspatzen in their native habitat, and you get a sense of what they sound like without going out of town to attend a full concert.

The Dom is an amazing structure.  The altar space is very tastefully appointed, and very large:

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I didn’t take very many photographs, because this was a religious service.    The majority of the people present were locals attending their church, not tourists.  I try not to be too disrespectful.  Still, you can get an idea of the size of the Domspatzen by seeing the group fully assembled:

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Since I wasn’t partaking of Communion, I used that time to try to get a little bit of the Domspatzen singing.  This clip is the older boys with the black vestments in the back.  If I’d kept the video running for another ten seconds, the younger group in red would also have been audible.

Because my video isn’t a complete song or a very good example of what seeing this group is like, I’ve gone out to the Tubes Of You, and found two pretty good clips that will give you an idea of how they sound.

Have you ever seen a world famous boy’s choir? What did you think?

Death On The Brain

Every once in a while, a conversation with my German friends takes a rather unexpected turn, or reveals a facet of cultural divide that I hadn’t ever imagined before.

Earlier this week, I was chatting online with Jenny (my usual partner in crime) and I stumbled across an image someone had posted to FaceBook.  I thought it was hilarious, so I shared it with her.

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Her reaction?  “I don’t know what the grim reaper is.”

I was incredulous for a moment, but then I realized how fascinating this is, so we talked a bit more and I asked some followup questions.   She did know the Grim Reaper, as it turns out, but only by the German names.  In Germany,  he’s referred to as Sensenmann (Scythe Man), or as  Väterchen Tod (Father Death).

The things that are “common knowledge” for someone who grew up in the United States are often wildly different than that of someone who grew up in Germany or England or almost anywhere else.

Have you learned that something which you thought was common knowledge that turned out not to be?

The Römermauer, After Renovations

Back in January of 2012, I noticed the Römermauer for the first time.  The Römermauer is a section of Roman wall from the original Castra Regina (“fortress by the river Regen”) which was built around 179 AD, during the reign of Marcus Aurelius.  It’s right behind the McDonald’s on Maximilianstraße, whickh is kind of nifty.

Here’s what it looked like back in 2012:

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Over the last few months, the fortress wall has been fenced off for some minor renovations, and now I know why.  The city put a walkway up around the side and back, enhanced the walkways around the wall, and generally made it a bit more tourist-friendly.

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Christmas Market Season Is Here!

Last week, the Christkindlmärkte opened all over Germany.  It’s time for Glühwein (hot mulled wine), hot fresh festival food, gingerbread, and the warmth that comes from spending time with your friends.  The markets will be open until just before Christmas.

I didn’t take this picture of the Regensburg market on Neupfarrplatz, but I wish I had-  I’m pretty sure that this view was taken from the spire of the Dom, and I really want to go up there.

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These next nine photos, on the other hand, are from the Marienplatz Christkindlmarkt in Munich.  I took these yesterday, while I was hanging out with Cliff before Sarah’s concert.

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Yup, they were singing.

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Oh crepes, lovely lovely crepes…

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The crepe under construction here was a Schafskäse (feta cheese), tomato, pesto, and balasmic crepe.  It was incredibly delicious, and really piping hot.

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There are a bajillion Glühwein stands in Munich.  They’re easy to spot, too.

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Have you ever been to a Christmas Market?  What’s your favorite flavor of Glühwein?