Keukenhof, Part One: The Park

The Tulip Festival in Holland has long been a big item on my Geographic To-Do list.  Jenny also wanted to see the Tulips, so on the first Friday in May, we all piled into Robert’s car and headed up to Keukenhof, about thirty-five kilometers from Amsterdam.

Keukenhof is the world’s second largest flower garden, only exceeded by Dubai Miracle Garden.  The park is only open for about eight weeks each year, typically from mid-March to late May.  During those eight weeks, Keukenhof sees around 800,000 visitors.

When we arrived, we were greeted by staff members handing out maps in traditional dresses.

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At least I think these are traditional dresses.  When I tried to research “traditional Dutch dresses,”  I kept finding lots of things with pointy hats.  This girl is definitely not wearing a pointy hat.

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I don’t really have too much to say about the flowers in Keukenhof.  I took a tremendous amount of pictures, but I’ll try not to overwhelm you with flowers.

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Needless to say, it was really colorful.

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Really, really colorful.

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We arrived a week or two too late to see the giant colorful fields of tulips that we were hoping for.  Warmer weather broke early this year, and we couldn’t visit in time to see the best blooms.

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That poor timing didn’t make the flowers we did see any less spectacular, though.

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The problem with going to a place like Keukenhof on the busiest weekend of its year, the weekend of the flower parade, is that everyone has basically the same idea.  To get any of the pictures I posted above, I had to wade through a whole lot of this:

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And, for some odd reason, weird sculpted fish.

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Flowers and people, as far as the eye can see!

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In order to get flowers without people, you have to get really  close to the flowers…

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Some of the people had very little courtesy.   They tromped through other people’s pictures, and in some cases damaged the flowers themselves.

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These signs?  Yeah, they were completely useless.

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I did my best to stay off the grass most of the time, because they gave us paved walkways that went right up to giant banks of flowers.

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By lunchtime, this is what the Keukenhof crowd levels looked like.

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This is some sort of art-deco tree.  I have no further comment.

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Some people didn’t think the flowers were pretty enough as-is, and made their own versions.

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There were some indoor exhibits about the history of the tulip, the planting methods used by Keukenhof, and so forth.  I thought this illustration of the worth of tulips was interesting.

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I liked these white ones quite a lot.

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And also these dark red ones.

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This picture and the one before it are taken from the exact same place.  This one just shows you all the crowds walking through it as well.

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Keukenhof is broken into sections.  There’s a historical garden, an English garden, an Asian garden, and so forth.

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One area of the historical garden has a sun-dial.  It was actually quite accurate.

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There were several picturesque fountains around the park.

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The carts you see on the opposite of this fountain?  Waffles and hot dogs, basically.   The waffle was delicious.

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Tulip-shaped candy pops?  Check!

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Giant windmill you can climb?  Check!  I skipped this one because of the crowds.

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On our way out, we passed some wooden busts of composers that I thought were nifty.  This one is Chopin.

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This one is Brahms.  Insert your own Brahms Lullaby/”sawing logs” joke here.

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And last but not least:  Orchids!

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Have you ever been to Keukenhof for the yearly Tulip Festival?

Luxembourg American Cemetery and Memorial

A short distance outside of Luxembourg is an American Cemetery and Memorial.  If you’re driving, there’s a nice parking lot right at the gate, but if you’re using public transportation, you take a bus a few minutes outside the city center, and then walk for a little more than a mile.  There are signs to point the way, but this road is part of the walk:

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Once you get to the top of the low hill, there’s a pretty hard to miss gate leading into the Cemetery.  The wrought iron gate holds gilded laurel wreaths, to represent valor.

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The US 5th Armored Division liberated this site on September 10, 1944.  A temporary military burial ground for those killed in action during World War II was set up in December of that year, and the Grand Ducal government of Luxembourg granted permanent use from that time without charging any rent or taxes.

I spoke briefly to the woman who was working in the visitor center near the gate; she told me that the office staff is two American woman (herself included,) and one local who speaks fluent Luxembourgish, French, and German.

The centerpiece of the memorial is this tower.  The door in the front opens to a small prayer and reflection chapel.

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Facing the tower are two walls which are Tablets of the Missing, listing the names of 371 Missing In Action.  The remains of these soldiers and airmen were never found or recovered.

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On the other side of the Tablets of the Missing are maps showing the military campaigns fought by these men, including the Battle of the Bulge, fought along the Rhine river.

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Past the monument are the graves, arranged in a semi-circle.  There are 5,076 headstones of those who lost their lives in service of their country on 50.5 acres.  118 of the headstones are Stars of David, like the one near the front in this photograph.

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4,958 of the headstones are Latin Crosses.  22 of them are sets of brothers.  One of the graves is that of a female army nurse.  Walking among these headstones is a quiet, serene experience.

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A pathway separates the graves area into roughly thirds, containing two fountains.  The fountains have bronze dolphins and turtles to symbolize resurrection and everlasting life.

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In front of the ranks, between two American flags, and looking out toward the rest of the graves, is the headstone of General George S. Patton, Jr., commander of the Third Army.

After a long and decorated military career, General Patton actually died in Heidelberg, Germany, from complications of an automobile collision in nearby Speyer.  He was buried in Luxembourg because he had previously requested that he be buried with his men.

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Have you ever been to an American Military Cemetery or Memorial?

Luxembourg City

My trip to Belgium concluded with a one night stay in Luxembourg City so that I would have a little bit of time to check out the place.   My hotel was directly opposite the train station, and I already posted a night-time view from this vantage point, because this was the night of the Sport Lisboa e Benfica win.   It was much quieter in the daytime.

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The topography of Luxembourg City is kind of amazing-  the entire city is constructed around gorges and ravines.  If you’re a fan of interesting bridges, this is the town for you to visit.  If I’m not mistaken, this one is the Passerelle, also known as the Luxembourg Viaduct.

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This is Luxembourg’s Notre-Dame Cathedral.  I knew there were a few Notre-Dame cathedrals, but I didn’t know before I looked it up that there are actually more than thirty.  I’ve seen three of ’em now.  I’m gonna collect the whole set! (Kidding…)

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In Constitution Square, as you’re heading into the old city, there’s a war memorial called The Monument of Remembrance.  The locals have nick-named it Gëlle Fra, which is Luxembourgish for “Golden Lady.”  The monument is dedicated to the Luxembourgers who served in the armed forces of the Allied Powers during World War I.

Interesting side note:  The first time I heard someone refer to Luxembourgish as a language, I thought they were joking.   Luxembourgish, I have learned, is a derivative of Franconian German which is spoken by about 400,000 people worldwide.    Most of them, naturally, are in Luxembourg.  Fascinating!

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Walking through the city, I found myself in a large square called the the Place d’Armes.  There were many restaurants and shops around this square, but there was also, somewhat randomly, a band visiting from Britain!  The Young Ambassador’s Brass Band of Great Britain.

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After I enjoyed the live music for a little while, I kept wandering.  I found the Grand Ducal Palace without much difficulty.  Large crowds of people make things easier to spot.

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When I got closer to the Grand Ducal Palace, I noticed a lone guard marching back and forth in front of the gate.   There were two of these blue guard boxes, and I wonder if the Luxembourg guard does as the Queen’s Guard do at Buckingham Palace:  Two sentries when royalty is in residence, and one when royalty is out of town.

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Walking further, I found a  theater with a nifty set of drama statues out in front.  Unfortunately, this was the beginning of the part of the trip where I got completely lost.  Despite my travel experience, this still happens to me sometimes.   When I’m in the heart of an old city, my sense of direction isn’t always the sharpest and I can get pretty turned around.    This never happens to me when I’m in Florida, even when I’m in an unfamiliar part of the state.   I don’t know precisely why this is.  In any case, I kept walking in the same direction, because I thought I was heading back toward Constitution Square.

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By the time I realized I wasn’t where I thought I had been going, I was several kilometers away from the place where I knew which way was which.   Lucky for me, this was also the point at which I found one of those Hop-On/Hop-Off bus tours.  I Hopped On.

Most of the bus tour was uninteresting to me, but I did quite like seeing The Tall Banker.  The Tall Banker, set in front of the Deka Bank, has the waist of a normal person, but he’s eight meters tall.

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From the bus tour, I also saw the Walking Flower sculpted by Fernand Léger in 1951.  I don’t know if this is the original one, because I saw the exact same sculpture two weeks later in the Hague.   This statue (or copies of it) have traveled the world, and one was even displayed in Manhattan.

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After I Hopped Off the tour bus, I walked back to Pont Adolphe.  I had actually been trying to find this bridge when I got turned around and subsequently lost, and it turned out to be very close to where I started out in the first place.  It was also closed to traffic for repairs, but that didn’t stop me from wandering out onto it.

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Have you ever visited Luxembourg City?

Mini-Europe and the Atomium

One of the things I was most looking forward to in Brussels is Mini-Europe.  Mini-Europe is exactly what it sounds like-  a 24,000 square meter park next to the Atomium in Bruparck containing models of well known structures from throughout the European Union, built in a scale of 1:25.   It’s delightfully cheesy and wonderful.

Also, I made new friends there!  The couple who sat down next to me on the metro on the way there turned out to be a Canadian couple who were traveling Europe, and we wound up hanging out together for Mini-Europe and the Atomium.  Hi, Chelsea and Andrew!

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I was really curious after seeing this as to what the telescope looked at.  It turns out that it’s a slide-show about the history of the telescope.

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Throughout the park, there are boats, cars, trains, and various other things in motion.  This boat caught my attention because the dude in the front-left seat is wearing a Stormtrooper helmet.  Unfortunately, it was too fogged up for me to see who else might be hiding in there.

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This is the Grand Place in Brussels, depicted here with the carpet of flowers that is put down every second year.  It will happen this year around August 15th.

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The Belfry in Bruges.   The big metal structure behind it is the Atomium… I’ll get back to that.

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Random sailing ship!

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At various points around the park, there are local outfits you can “try on.”  Near London, there was this traditional uniform of the Queen’s Guard.  Naturally, I couldn’t resist.  (Special thanks to Andrew for snapping this shot of me.)

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London.  Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.

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The Eiffel Tower.  Even at 1:25 scale, Eiffel’s Tower was enormous.

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The Arc de Triomphe, Parisian version.

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Sacre Coeur, also from Paris.  The Funicular was running, too!

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La Mancha!  Check out the tiny Don Quixote and Sancho Panza!

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The Leaning Tower of Pisa.

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Scientific exploration?  This is part of the detail on the Leaning Tower.

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Venice.  The Doge’s Palace and the Campanile tower.

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I think this Gondolier needs a little help.

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A tiny recreation of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

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Prague‘s Old Town Hall, containing the Astronomical Clock.

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Athens, Greece.

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After we were finished with Mini Europe, we stopped briefly at the gift shop, where Chelsea spotted this happy little kitty hanging out on the roof near the exit.

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When these workers stepped into the pool in front of the 16th century Castle of Chenonceaux (France),  all I could think was, “Giants in the playground!

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…and then it was time to go to the Atomium!

The Atomium was  built for the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair. Its nine stainless steel wrapped spheres are connected to form the shape of an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times.  Four of the spheres contain exhibits, and the topmost sphere is a 360 degree observation deck and restaurant.  There’s a webcam on top, at a height of 102 meters, if you want to check it out.

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The Atomium has perhaps the best “You Are Here” maps I have ever seen.

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…and the views are unparalleled.  This is looking out from one of the spheres back toward Mini Europe.

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This is the view straight up from the base of the Atomium.

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And because I never get tired of the Atomium, here’s a shot from further afield that I took later in the day.

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…and a rare picture of me standing in front of a landmark.  I much prefer being on the other side of the camera.

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Have you ever been to Mini-Europe or the Atomium?

Brussels, Belgium

My trip to Belgium included a bunch of time spent in Brussels, the de facto capital of the European Union.  It’s a fascinating city.  I arrived via high speed train to the city around 5:30 in the afternoon.   Walking to my hotel from the station, I found something interesting in less than ten minutes-  this building’s angel/demon stone-work was just fascinating to me.

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After I dropped my stuff off at the hotel, I went back out with my camera to see a bit of the city.  I also had a specific goal in mind, but I’ll get to that in a moment.  On the walk into the city, I found this Pop-Up Restaurant.  It was set up temporarily in front of the Le Monnaie De Munt, a rather nifty looking theater.  The Pop-Up Restaurant was set up so they could film a television show, according to the signage.  I briefly considered trying to get a table before moving on.

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Walking further toward the Grand Place, I spotted this rather amusingly named restaurant.  It had pretty typical food on the menu and I almost had dinner there one evening, but changed my mind at the last minute.  Also, I thought the eggs were regular decoration, but they were just there because it was Easter weekend.

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I wandered from there into the Grand Place.  It’s pretty hard to miss this enormous square.  The Town Hall has an enormous pointy bit.  I did not climb the pointy bit, as you had to make a reservation in advance to do so.

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I mentioned above that I had a specific goal in mind for my walk through the city on the first evening.  Most everyone has heard of Manneken Pis, the famous statue of the little boy peeing.  That statue is widely associated with Brussels, and is one of the symbols of the city.   There are two more peeing statues, though:  Jeanneke Pis, a little girl peeing, was put up in 1987, and Zinneke Pis, a dog peeing, was put up in 1998.  I decided when I left the hotel that I wanted to find all three before sundown.

Zinneke Pis was the first one I found.    The tile Space Invaders art drew my attention to the corner before I spotted the dog on the corner.

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Someone asked me if it was a male or female dog.  I can say with authority that it is most decidedly a male dog.  You just can’t see it in this camera angle.

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Next up is the Manneken Pis.  This one is marked on sightseeing signs and tourist maps, because it’s the most famous of the three.  This fountain was erected in 1619, and they dress it up in various costumes several times per week.  There was no costume while I was there, which surprised me because it was Easter weekend.

This is not the only Manneken Pis; there are others in various cities in Belgium, and one in Tokushima, Japan which was a gift from the Belgian embassy.

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I saw so many replicas while I was in the city, including one made all of chocolate, and this one dressed up for the World Cup later this year.

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Moving on from the Manneken Pis, I found my way next to Jeanneke Pis, erected in 1987 very close to the Rue des Bouchers, which is a narrow street full of restaurants.   Jeanneke Pis is not far from the Grand Place, and it is regrettably behind locked iron bars which makes getting a good picture of her somewhat difficult.

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Jeanneke Pis is basically across the street from the Delirium Tremens Beer Bar and Cafe,  which made this a perfect time to stop for a nice Belgian beer before dinner.

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I tried the Delirium Nocturnum, a strong delicious dark beer with an 8.50% alcohol by volume.  Did I mention it was delicious?

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After leaving Delirium, I decided to look for some dinner before retiring for the night.  Passing by it, I saw the Beurs, the Brussels Stock Exchange, which is the location of the Art of the Brick Lego art exhibit.  I’ll come back to this in another post, because I checked out this exhibit right before I left Brussels two days later.

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The next day, it was time for my actual tour of Brussels, led by a professional tour guide.  It started in the Grand Place, so here’s another view of that large plaza.

While I was waiting for the tour to start, I had a Belgian waffle covered in powdered sugar.  The powdered sugar made me cough, which caused me to be completely enveloped in a cloud of white powder.

Delicious high comedy.

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Moving on, we walked past the Cathédrale des Saints Michel et Gudule (Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula,)  which was completed in 1519.

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This is a monument to King Leopold I, the first king of the Belgians.  He ruled from 1831 to 1865.

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This is at the base of a very tall monument, but none of my other pictures came out very well.  The structure is the Colonne des Congrés (the Congress Column.)  The four corners are statues representing the four freedoms of Belgium- Freedom of the press, of religion, of education, and of association.

The flame is atop a Belgian Tomb of the Unknown Soldier,  from World War I.

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Moving on, we visited the Parliamentarium’s visitor’s center, which is all about the European Union’s Parliament and how it governs.  It was pretty neat, actually.  This first section represents the main structures in the three governing cities of the EU-  Brussels, Luxembourg, and Strasbourg.

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How far is it to your home city? Vienna’s only 917 kilometers away…

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The exhibit had a detailed model of the European Parliament’s seating arrangement.  Interestingly, the seating is not by nation, it’s by political affiliation.

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I missed all but the last three minutes of this film about how the Parliament makes decisions because I was fascinated by shiny objects on the other side of the hall.  It looked interesting, though.

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On the way back from the Parliamentarium, we passed the Triumphal Arch in the Parc du Cinquantenaire, but alas, we didn’t actually go into the Jubilee Park, so this is the best photograph I took of the Arch.

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This… this is just an enormously large flower pot that amused me.

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I ate at two different restaurant chains that I quite enjoyed while I was in Brussels.  The first was called Quick.  The face of the restaurant was emblazoned with a giant lit up sign that said “Quality Burger Restaurant,” and the sign made me skeptical enough to try it.  (“Challenge accepted!“) It turns out that it’s got all the soul that McDonald’s has given up over the years,  and the burgers were delicious beyond all reason.  The other restaurant that I tried was a healthy chain called Exki.  This place was utterly delicious-  it was a little like the Pret a Manger and Eat chains that are all over London, but with more hot prepared foods and a few other interesting choices like the Ubuntu cola in the picture below.  (It was decent, but Coke is still better.)  They name their sandwiches with people names, so my lunch as pictured below was John.  The chocolate brownie in the background was so delicious.

I am excited beyond reason that they’re opening an Exki in New York City.  You have no idea.

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My next-door neighbor Lori sent me a link before I left for Brussels with a list of the top ten places to get a great view of Brussels.  One of those places was a parking garage called Park 58.    Entrance is free (because it’s a parking garage, not a tourist attraction,) and the elevator will take you right to the tenth floor.  From there, you have a fantastic view in almost all directions.  This is the view looking back toward the Grand Place.

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On the other side, you can see clearly all the way to the Atomium.  The Atomium is really cool, and I’ll talk about my visit there in another post.

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This statue is near Grasmarkt.  I didn’t remember to catch the plaque that explains it, but I quite dig the man’s mustache and his friendly dog.

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Don Quixote and Sancho Panza?  Yup!  I’m not sure why it’s in Brussels, but it’s in Place D’Espagne, and it’s a replica of the original statue in Madrid.

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Last, but certainly not least, Brussels is another city full of art.  I kept noticing that the exposed sides of buildings were painted all over the city.  I only snapped pictures of these four, and there was one more of a swashbuckler that I wanted to go back for, but I didn’t have time.   I love that the buildings have this much character.  These four are in different places all over the city:

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Have you ever been to Brussels?  What was your favorite thing about the city?