The Römermauer, After Renovations

Back in January of 2012, I noticed the Römermauer for the first time.  The Römermauer is a section of Roman wall from the original Castra Regina (“fortress by the river Regen”) which was built around 179 AD, during the reign of Marcus Aurelius.  It’s right behind the McDonald’s on Maximilianstraße, whickh is kind of nifty.

Here’s what it looked like back in 2012:

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Over the last few months, the fortress wall has been fenced off for some minor renovations, and now I know why.  The city put a walkway up around the side and back, enhanced the walkways around the wall, and generally made it a bit more tourist-friendly.

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Highgate Cemetery, London

I meant to visit Highgate Cemetery on my first visit to London, and again on my second visit.  It took until my third visit before I managed to make it there.  It’s a little further from the London Tube than Pere Lachaise is from the Paris Metro.  Inside the gates, it’s not as well kept as Pere Lachaise either, but it has its own charm.

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One of the things I like about Highgate is that many of the graves show a bit of the personality of the people buried there.  For example, Gordon Bell:

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One of the founders of Foyle’s Books:

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Many of the graves were massively overgrown, or sunken.  There are quite a few that cannot be reached easily.

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I’m guessing Thornton was a pianist?

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It wouldn’t be a trip to a cemetery without spotting a black cat hanging around.  This one wasn’t as friendly as the one in Paris.

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The grave of Karl Marx is very subtle.  I almost missed it entirely.

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Another grave with a lot of personality.

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There were many children buried in Highgate.  Some of their gravestones were unique.

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The primary reason I wanted to go to Highgate was to see the grave of Douglas Noel Adams.

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I realized when I arrived that it has become customary to leave a pen in the bowl in front of his grave.  I always carry a pen, so I left it there.

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I liked this gravestone.  I hope when I’m gone that I’m also remembered as a wise and gentle man.  Realistically, I’ll have to settle for gentle.

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This gravestone wins.  If anyone was at all unsure of their status, it’s clearly readable in the stone itself.

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Cardiff

On my last trip to the UK, we took a day trip to Cardiff by train out of London’s Paddington Station. This makes Wales my fifteenth country visited! (Not including the US.)

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Cardiff is a fascinating little city.  We didn’t see even a third of what the city has to offer, but we did take a stroll past this nifty clock down Queen Street.

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At the end of the street are the outer walls of Cardiff Castle.

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Through the main gate of those outer walls is the original Norman shell keep, flying the flag of Wales.

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The red dragon motif is everywhere, as the symbol of Wales.  It’s also the symbol of the Brains brewery, which makes a pretty tasty beer.  I had a Brains Green Dragon at lunch when we were back in London later in the trip, and I wish I’d had a Brains while we were closer to the brewery- I’ve been told that the flavor loses something in transit.

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Our goal for this jaunt to Cardiff was actually in Cardiff Bay.  From the Cardiff central station, we took a small local train to Queen Street a few stops from the main station, then changed to the smallest train ever to go to Cardiff Bay.  Seriously, it’s only got the one wagon and it just goes back and forth between Queen Street and Cardiff Bay.

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From Cardiff Bay’s little train station, it’s a short walk to the Bay.  You’ll pass  the very pretty Pierhead building.

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…and you’ll walk past the Wales Millennium Center.  If you watched Torchwood, this will look familiar.  This is an arts center which hosts events like concerts, opera, ballet, and so forth.  The dome is clad in steel that was treated with copper oxide, to represent Cardiff’s steel making history. It was designed to withstand the weather conditions on the Cardiff Bay waterfront.

Inscribed on the front of the dome, above the main entrance, are two lines written by Welsh poet Gwyneth Lewis. The Welsh version is Creu Gwir fel gwydr o ffwrnais awen, which means “Creating truth like glass from the furnace of inspiration”. The English is In These Stones Horizons Sing.  (Thanks, Wikipedia!)

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Walking further along the bay is the World Harmony Peace Statue. You hold the handle of the torch, and make a wish for world peace.

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After a little bit more walking, we arrived at the goal for this side trip:  The Doctor Who Experience, situated in Cardiff Bay until 2017.  The first part of the DWE is an interactive walk-through adventure with the eleventh Doctor in which you get to fly the TARDIS, so that’s pretty fun.  Also, you get to learn how to walk like a scarecrow soldier or a Cyberman.

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After the interactive part of the Doctor Who Experience, there’s an exhibition.  I took a bajillion photographs, but I won’t bore my non-geeky readers with all of those.  I selected just seven pictures to give you a sense of the place.  If you’re not into Doctor Who, just skip down to the picture that has me in it, and we’ll pick up the post from there.

The first picture is the outfit of Tom Baker, the fourth Doctor.  This was part of a row of outfits worn by each of the first ten Doctors.

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Similarly, the companions each had outfits in the exhibition.  Here’s Elisabeth Sladen’s Sarah Jane Smith outfit.

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There were several TARDIS control rooms in the exhibition.  I’m pretty sure this was the fourth Doctor’s control room.

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…and this was definitely Nine and Ten’s control room, brought over to the DWE in its entirety after the regeneration into Eleven.  They cleaned it up a bit, but you can still see smoke and fire damage from Ten’s fairly explosive regeneration.

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No Doctor Who exhibit would be complete without  my favorite robot dog of all time, K-9.

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Most of the Doctor’s adversaries were represented, but I particularly liked this Cyberman.

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Of course, there were friends of the Doctor present as well.  Here’s me, hanging out with the Face Of Boe.

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Ok, that’s enough geekery for this post.  Once we were done at the Doctor Who Experience, it was time to walk back from Cardiff Bay.  I had to force myself not to walk like a Cyberman.

Cardiff Bay is really a very pretty place.  Here’s a view out from the dock.

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There’s a number of fascinating sculptures around the Bay.  This was my favorite- the Merchant Seafarers’ War Memorial, by sculptor Brian Fell.  It’s designed to look like both a face and the bow of a ship.

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Walking back up the wide sidewalks from the Bay to the little rail station, we couldn’t help but notice all the spiders that were out.  I think they were collecting food and preparing for the winter.

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Last but not least, on our way out of the Cardiff Bay area, this little cutie walked right up to us, flopped over, and demanded to be loved.  Who could say no to those little paws?

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Have you ever been to Cardiff? Did you learn to walk like a Cyberman while you were there?

Paris In Less Than Four Days

It took me almost two years to get around to seeing Paris, but I spent a few days there in the month of August.  I lost pretty much my entire first day to a stomach bug of some sort.  I did about 60% of a Louvre tour before I went back to the hotel to sweat out a fever or three.  I skipped a tour I’d booked for the Eiffel Tower that afternoon, and started over on the second day.

I have a few thoughts about visiting Paris that I’d like to share with you before we go on to the photographs.

Don’t go to Paris in August.  Seriously, it’s not an ideal time.  For one thing, July and August are the hottest months to visit and that’s just… sticky.   For another, that’s when the tourist levels are at their highest.   If you’ve ever walked into a restaurant immediately after an entire Japanese tour bus was seated, you know what I’m talking about.  Wait times for big draws like the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre can go up to several hours in August.  Just pick another month.  You’ll be glad you did.  I’ve said this about other cities as well, because it holds true in any city that gets a lot of tourism:  Skip-the-Line tours are worth their weight in gold.  Book them wisely.

Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport is not as confusing and horrible as people say.  CDG, sometimes called Roissy Airport, has a reputation for being an awful, terrible, very bad airport.  People say it’s confusing and lacks good signs.  I didn’t find this to be the case.  I found the airport to be logical and simple.  The big problem with Roissy Airport is the sheer size of the place.  Charles de Gaulle is roughly the seventh busiest airport in the world, and the place is improbably huge.  A walk from terminal 2C to terminal 2F can take you fifteen or twenty  minutes, although there’s a free shuttle at regular intervals.  In other words, you need to figure out what terminal you’re going to ahead of time, or you need to allow yourself enough time to move between terminals.   If you plan ahead and give yourself plenty of time, CDG is easy as pie.  Pie with lots of walking.

Parisian waiters are not rude to tourists.  Not exactly.  I found them to be friendly and polite.  I think a lot of this misconception is because Americans aren’t used to European dining mores.  In Europe, wait staff will not hurry you along.  To an American used to dining in restaurants where they bring you the check before you finish and check on you every ten minutes, this can seem like you’ve been forgotten.  That’s not the case, however, and you simply need to get your waiter’s attention to call him or her back over.  So no, Parisian waiters aren’t rude.  However, I did find that I was shortchanged no less than three times in a four day span.  I could chalk it up to a language barrier if I was feeling charitable, but I suspect that they heard my English and assumed I was just another dumb American tourist who could be easily fooled because he isn’t used to the Euro.

On a side note,  Paris is officially the most expensive city I’ve ever visited.  More expensive than London or New York City by an order of magnitude.  At one dinner, I asked for a large Sprite.  The dude brought me an entire liter in a giant mug, then charged me €16.  The entree was only €9, so you can imagine my surprise at the beverage costing almost twice the food.   That was the first full meal I ordered in Paris.  It was also the last full meal I ordered in Paris.

I also took pictures!  I took about four hundred shots, most of which are not in this post.  If you really want to look at the rest of the pics not in this post, there’s an entire gallery over here.

Let’s move on, shall we?

This is the front entrance of the Louvre.  Or rather, it’s the archway in front of the glass pyramid in front of the doors to the Louvre.

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The Louvre is the world’s most visited museum.   It’s also one of the world’s largest museums- a collection of enormous buildings full of antiquities and master works.  If you stopped to view each item in the Louvre for three minutes, you’d be there for roughly three months.  Here’s a Sphinx.

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Here’s the Venus de Milo, one of the best known pieces in the museum.

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This one is called The Nike of Samothrace.  It’s considered a symbol of triumph, despite the fact that the head and arms have never been found.

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This hallway contains a lot of things from the French nobility.  Crowns, swords, tables, and so forth.

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Last but certainly not least is the Mona Lisa. Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece from the early 1500s is situated behind an enormous pane of bulletproof glass.  I took this picture from a good distance and didn’t get to spend any time looking at her up close because this was the point at which I abandoned my guided tour and ran for the exit before shuttering myself into the hotel for the next eighteen hours.

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The next day, after I was done with the worst of my sick time, I had a tour booked that I’d been looking forward to for a while-  a Segway tour of Paris with Ellie from Fat Tire Bike Tours.  This proved to be fortuitous- I wasn’t really up to a walking tour yet after being sick the day before; my energy levels were still pretty wrecked.  Riding a Segway was a fun, less strenuous way to see large swathes of the city.  (Except the parts that were closed while they were shooting scenes for a movie. I wish I’d actually seen some filming- I heard there were people in period costumes with old cars from the early 1900s.)

But anyway-  Segways!  They’re fun!  They’re also pretty easy to ride- the hardest part is in the first two minutes, including your first mount and dismount.  I was comfortable enough for basic movement in about five minutes, and I felt like an experienced rider after twenty minutes.  The weather was absolutely perfect for this tour.

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What visit to Paris would be complete without seeing Notre Dame de Paris?  I didn’t actually get to hear the famous bells of Notre Dame, but I think I’ll live.

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The Eiffel Tower is not the only super tall place in Paris.  There’s also Montparnasse 56, which is this building here.  The top floor is an attraction called Tour Montparnasse, which is an indoor observation level with a stair up to a rooftop observation level.  Since I have a tendency to love tall places, of course I went there.

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This is the view of the Eiffel Tower from Montparnasse 56.

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The Paris Metro is kind of strange. Most of the cars are an older type where you have to lift a little metal handle to get off at your stop, and some of them use rubber wheels like this instead of train style all-metal rail wheels.  It’s very odd.  It’s also the second busiest metro in the world, and it’s pretty much all Art Nouveu inside the stations.  Charming, yet disconcerting.

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On my third day, I tried to go to the Cinémathèque Française, a museum of cinema.  They have a lot of very interesting exhibits that I was curious to see, but it turns out that the museum was closed for a few weeks.  My timing astounds.

Instead, I went to Père Lachaise, perhaps the most visited cemetery in the world.   I initially misread the map near the entrance, and so I wound up walking around a bit less efficiently than I would have liked.  That’s ok, though, because this little fuzzball totally made my day when she walked over, sniffed my hand, then sat with me for a few minutes.

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Let’s talk famous people.  Père Lachaise has a bunch of ’em.  After I figured out that I’d misread the map, I was easily able to find Abelard & Heloise and Oscar Wilde.  I was unable to locate Balzac‘s grave.  And I got turned around looking for Jim Morrison, but I don’t feel badly about that because that’s when I stumbled across Frederic Chopin’s grave.

There are many non-famous graves in Père Lachaise also, and it’s possible to walk around for hours without becoming bored.  I took fifty or sixty photographs inside the walls of the cemetery.  I particularly liked this symbol, on one of the tombs, because I like the symbolism of time slipping away on feathered wings.

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Speaking of angel wings, this gravestone was positively gorgeous.

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So was this one.

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After a few hours walking around Père Lachaise, I decided it was time for a break.  I went back onto the Metro, to the area near Montmartre, where I had a nice crepe with butter and sugar for lunch.  I was still recovering my strength from being sick, and so that sugar was entirely necessary.  That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

After lunch, I took the Funicular up the hill to see Sacre Coeur Basilica.

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There were a ton of people hanging out around the Basilica.  This guy was practicing antigravity with his soccer ball on the steps.  He was talented enough to catch my attention for a while.

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A short distance from the Basilica is Espace Dali, a substantial and amazing Salvador Dali museum.  Again, I took a metric pantload of pictures, but I’m only including one here- one of Dali’s famous melting clocks.

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The Espace Dali had a photo booth that would superimpose your picture into Dali imagery.  I got this one.  If I’d had another €3 in coins, I would also have gotten the one that puts Salvador’s mustache on you.

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Walking back down the hill from Montmartre, I saw this graffiti on a building.  Come to think of it, I saw a lot of cat-centric graffiti on buildings on this trip.

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Meanwhile, back on the other side of town, there’s a little known archway called the Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile.  It’s much larger than I thought it was.  Also, you can climb it.  I didn’t realize at first that there were people on the top, looking down.  I’ll come back to this.

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I spotted this building on my walk back to the hotel, and I thought it was kind of interesting.  It certainly didn’t match its neighbors.

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This is the dome of L’Hôtel national des Invalides, which is also the tomb of Napoleon.  Yes, that’s real gold.

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This is the Musée d’Orsay, an old train station which has been converted into a gallery full of the world’s finest Impressionist painters, including Monet, Renoir, and Van Gogh.  I didn’t actually have time to go into this one, but it’s a lovely building.

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This is just a street.  There’s nothing particularly special about this street, except that it’s in Paris and it looks kind of nice.

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This is some of the bouquinistes, or permanent used book stores attached to the side of the River Seine near Notre Dame.  Apparently, the wait list to acquire one of the 250 locations along the Seine is about eight years.

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This was along the river also.  I just thought it was neat.

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This tower marks the location of the Bastille, but the prison itself is long gone.  After the prison was torn down, the bricks from the Bastille were used to make one of the bridges across the Seine.

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I mentioned I’d get back to the Arc d’Triomphe.  When I finally went back, I stumbled across a nightly ceremony to relight the flame on the grave of the Unknown Soldier from the Great War.

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Next, I climbed the Arc, because it was tall and because that’s what I do.  This is what the famous shopping stretch of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées looks like from the top.

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Last but not least is the Eiffel Tower.  I had blown my pre-booked tour (and lost about eighty bucks) by getting horribly sick at the start of the trip, but I gave it another shot on my last day, before I flew back to Germany.  The first elevators to the summit opened at 9am, so I got in line at 8:30.  Good thing I did, because I was definitely not the only one who decided to get an early start.  By 9:30 I was in the structure, and by 10:30 I was back down.   I took pictures from the summit, but they don’t look that different than my pictures from Tour Montparnasse or the Arc d’Triomphe, so I won’t put them in this post.

I will, however, put a picture of the counterweights here.  The gargantuan elevators that go up and down the corner pillars of the Eiffel have these huge counterweights that were just amazing to see.  According to Old Man Wiki, the counterweights are 200 tons each, and sit atop hydraulic rams for the lift system.  I’ve read a description of the hydraulic lift system four times in a row now, and I still don’t quite understand it, but it’s amazing to see in action.  I wish there was something in this picture to give you a sense of scale-  the counterweights were easily three times my height.

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One final picture, looking up from near the center of the Tower.   They’re building new stuff.  There’s also a cafe on that first elevated level that I didn’t have time to check out.

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What’s your favorite part of Paris?

August Break: Schloss Neuschwanstein

I’m on an August Break from my regular blogging schedule. Here’s today’s pictures.

I finally made it out to Schloss Neuschwanstein this weekend, as a Saturday day-trip with Jenny and her boyfriend Robert.  King Ludwig II’s famous castle was the inspiration for Disney’s Cinderella’s Castle.  Roughly one and a half million people come to the castle every year, and I think about a third of them were present while we were visiting.

I encourage you to click through to the full sized pictures, because I purposely saved them to be huge and awesome.  I may use one of them as my desktop for a while.  The castle is nestled in the Alps, and it makes the views amazing.

When approaching the castle from the roadway into Schwangau, this is your first view of it:

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Inside Schwangau, there are sections of roadway that are closed to cars- but open to bicycles and horse drawn carriages.  I love that they have signs for this.

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Where a heavy tourism market springs up, so must there be signs.  Lots and lots of signs.   This one tells you that there’s a bathroom 150 meters to the right, and points out ways to reach both castles, the Museum of Bavarian Kings, and the Alpsee (Alp lake).

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This is the view taken from the castle ramparts.  This scene includes the town of Schwangau, the other castle (Hohenschwangau,) and the Alpsee.  Plus a small portion of the Alps themselves.

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Most everyone who goes to Neuschwanstein walks around back to the Marienbrücke, a small pedestrian bridge that looks over the backside.  On a crowded day, the bridge looks like this:

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Fighting those crowds is worth it though, because then you can get these next three shots:

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Have you ever been to Schloss Neuschwanstein?  What’s your favorite castle?