Tokyo’s Tallest, or Getting High In Japan

Given my well established love of very tall places, it is probably no surprise to anyone that I pointed out the view from Mori Tower in my Star Wars Visions post and the view from Granpark.  Mori Tower is the 12th tallest structure in Japan, and Granpark is the 25th tallest.

In Tokyo, there are many, many tall buildings.  During my time in Japan, I made certain to stop at as many tall places as possible.  Three of the tallest in Tokyo are Tokyo Tower, Tokyo Skytree, and the twin observation decks of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Center.    This post is about my visits to these three.

I started with Tokyo Tower.  Tokyo Tower is painted white and international orange, the same color as the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.  This Eiffel Tower inspired structure was built in 1958, with a total height of 333 meters.  I visited the tower on an overcast day, approaching from the Akabanebashi station of the Metro.

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The Tokyo Tower has two mascots.  Older Brother is wearing the blue outfit, and Younger Brother is in the red.  They were introduced on December 23, 1998 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Tokyo Tower.

It is not at all clear to me why Older Brother has a bandaid on his head.

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Inside the tower, there are many shopping and tourism opportunities.

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A thick glass floor is set into one area of the tower so that you can reach the parking lot in a hurry if you need to.

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From the observation level of Tokyo Tower, I had a clear view of the Zojo-ji temple, less than a kilometer away.   I visited Zojo-ji on the same day, but I’ll be putting those photos in a separate post.

Anything further out than this was too hard to see, because of the very hazy air.

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Fans of the popular anime “One Piece” have a special exhibit to see on one of the lower levels of the tower.

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Distant viewing was useless during my visit because of the haze, but that didn’t stop other people from visiting.  The sign over this man’s head is pointing to Tokyo Disneyland, which I will also cover in a later post.

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Tokyo Tower shaped water bottles- pure marketing genius.

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The next tower in this post is Tokyo Skytree.  To go there, you will most likely see the Tokyo Skytree station, which has an advertisement for a Moomin Hosue Cafe.  I never had a chance to find the Moomins, but I wish I had.

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Tokyo Skytree is the tallest structure in Japan.  At 634 meters, it’s the tallest tower in the world, and the second tallest structure.  (Burj Khalifa is the tallest structure in the world, with nearly 200 meters of height over Skytree.  Still, this is damned impressive, don’t you think?)

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I waited for a sunny and clear day for my first three attempts to get into Skytree.

On the first try, I arrived later than I had planned and the line was insanely long.  I parsed several hours of waiting, so I opted to try again on a day that wasn’t a weekend.

On my second attempt, the line was also too long.  I needed to get to work, so couldn’t stay.  I decided to try to get there much earlier in the morning, closer to the tower’s opening time.

The third attempt was closer to successful-  I arrived much earlier in the day, and the lines were not so long.  However, the tower’s elevators had been closed due to high wind.  Strike three.

After my first three failed attempts to get into Skytree, my manager told me about the special foreigner line which is designed to allow tourists to bypass the longer lines by paying a slightly higher rate and showing their non-Japanese passport.  This turned out to be moot, though-  on my fourth and final attempt to see Skytree two days before leaving Japan, the weather was overcast and hazy so the lines weren’t very long anyway.

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Skytree has mascots, of course.  The girl is called Sorakara-chan.  I’m not sure about the dog or penguin.

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Tokyo Skytree has a glass floor panel as well.  This is definitely not for people with acrophobia.

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Despite the haze, you can still see Tokyo Tower in the distance, nesteled in amongst some other very tall buildings.

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The view was great, but I wish I’d managed to get up here on a clear day.

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My third and final tall building for this post is the ninth tallest structure in Japan.  The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku is split into two separate towers above the 33rd floor.  The elevators to the observation level are free, which was a nice change after spending money at Tokyo Tower and Skytree.

The day before I visited this building, it had rained a great deal.   There were moderately high winds, which blew out much of the haze from my other tower visits.

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In fact, the air was so clear over Tokyo that I was able to catch sight of Mt. Fuji!

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Don’t be deceived by my amazing camera zoom, though-  Fuji-san is still a long way from the center of Tokyo.  This is the same view as the previous picture, with significantly less zoom.

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The Kanda river.

 

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A longer view of the river.

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Tokyo is a very dense city, with many very tall buildings.

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They still manage to squeeze a lot of green spaces in,though.  I think this is Shinjuku Central Park.

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What’s the tallest building you’ve ever visited?

Visions Of Star Wars

Just before I went to Japan, I started looking into shows and events and interesting things to see in Tokyo.  One of the first things I learned was that there was a Star Wars: Visions exhibit in Roppongi Hills from late April until late June.    My colleague and I hit the train before work one day, to see the exhibit.   There were advertisements in the train stations.

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Before we went all the way into the tower, we stopped for a quick breakfast.  It turns out that Seattle-based Tully’s Coffee has a presence in Tokyo, and they make very tasty pastries.  I think this was an apple based pastry, if I remember correctly.  It was quite good.

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Mori Tower was our next stop.  This is where the Star Wars exhibit was being held, as well as a Naruto exhibit which we did not visit.

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On the walk into Mori Tower, there’s a giant spider thing.  Fun!

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If you’re not sure that you’re headed in the right direction, just look for a sign.

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I’m not really a fan of most anime, but it looks like Naruto fans would have really enjoyed this nearby exhibit.

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The exhibits are held on the top floors of Mori Tower, which means you get a pretty spectacular view of the city looking out toward Tokyo Tower, the one that looks like a red Eiffel Tower.  I’ll get to Tokyo Tower in another post.

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Star Wars: Visions is an exhibit of artifacts from the Star Wars universe, as well as some new art pieces.  The artifacts were far more interesting to me than the art.

First, you have to get past more giant signs though.

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Once you get inside, one of the first things you see is the Death Star!

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Here’s a Darth Vader figure in his regeneration chamber.

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There was a life-sized Darth Vader lightsaber duel set-up on the roof for you to pick up a lightsaber and get a good photo against the Tokyo skyline.  However, that part of the exhibit was closed when we were there.  (Dang it, it looks cool!)

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We didn’t get to fight a Sith lord, but we did get to see almost every light-saber in the Star Wars film universe.

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And models!  Lots of tiny lit up models of ships!

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The level of detail on these ships is amazing.

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So much goodness can be seen here.

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Look, it’s a recreation of the two second scene in Jedi when you see a shuttle landing on Endor!

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In case you ever wanted to see the individual components of Vader’s mask, here they are.  I’ve always been curious about the little brown postage-stamps that ring the face-mask.  I can see now that they’re covered in circuitry, which makes total sense to me.

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I believe this is an original Boba Fett costume and Han-sicle.

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This is an original Han Solo blaster prop.

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…and this is actual C3PO and R2-D2 costumes.

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On the way out, there’s some rather nifty art in a lucite box.

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Have you ever seen a Star Wars exhibit?   What was your favorite artifact?

The Tokyo Robot Evening Cabaret Show

Perhaps one of the single most touristy things that I did in Japan was to go to the Tokyo Robot Evening Cabaret Show in the Kabukicho entertainment district of Shinjuku. This was the single most over-the-top show I’ve ever seen, without exaggeration.

It was on my walk to find this attraction that I spotted Godzilla on the Toho building.   I also liked the Taito Station building’s lights.

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I think that the people behind the Robot Cabaret Show had a brainstorming session to figure out what Americans would like, and then they put all of it into the show.  All of it.  Very colorful signs?  Check.

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A Daft Punk knockoff band in the waiting lounge before the show?  Check!

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A waiting room that looks like Las Vegas drank too much Absinthe and threw up all over the ceiling?  That’s a big check!

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Each admission to the show includes a ticket for a single drink.  I chose Ninja Lager, because it had ninjas on the bottle.

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After a little while, you are seated for the 90 minute show.  First up, Taiko drums!

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…with lots of led lights, naturally.

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It wouldn’t be Japan without a dragon, right?

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I think these guys were supposed to represent samurai warriors, but it wasn’t ever clear to me.

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Vaguely geisha-like dancing girls and punk-looking dancing girls on the same stage?  Check again!

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Kung-Fu Panda riding a giant Cow to fight the evil robots?  That’s a ridiculous check!

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Elemental girl riding a dragon…. because why not.

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She dismounts the dragon and fights the bad guy with a giant hammer thingie.

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Next up, a spider queen, I think.  You can tell because of all the extra arms.  And the giant spider.

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We can’t leave the giant sharks out of it.   They do their part in chomping the bad guys.

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Plus giant snakes.  I think the point was supposed to be that nature defended itself.

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Next, for some inexplicable reason, extremely creepy clowns!  Check!

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The Taiko drummers have returned with a regular drum set.

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In the second half of the show, we get more robots.  Lots more.

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Plus neon dancers.  These were pretty cool, actually.

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Just when you think it can’t possibly get more ridiculous, the Superman logos start to appear.  On the dancing girls.

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On the robot with the clown afro wig.

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It’s time for the big neon Superman robot finale!

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The robots and the Superman dancing girls are living in harmony now!

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The screens on the robots all have the Superman logo showing up on a field of stars now.

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Robot Superman himself does a fly-by, to shower his blessings of superness on the dancing girls and robots below.

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…and suddenly, it’s Superman logos everywhere!  Even on the walls behind the audience!

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Would Robot Superman win in a fight against Kung-Fu Panda riding a Giant Cow?

Around the office, Tokyo Edition

Longtime readers of my blog know that I don’t really talk about my employment here.  However, my primary reason for being in Japan was to work in the Tokyo office for five weeks.  As a result, I spent a lot of time around this view:

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Our office is in the Otemachi financial district.  There are lots of very, very tall buildings here.

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Any series of posts about being in Japan should touch on the older style of floor-toilets.  This is what they look like.  In train stations, there are markings on the stall doors to tell you whether you have a floor toilet or a Western-style toilet.  I managed to go through most of my five weeks in Japan without having to use one of these logistically crazy floor squatters.   I was doing fine, until I got to a train station on the outskirts of Osaka.   When you’ve gotta go, you’ve gotta go.

The problem with floor toilets for a Westerner like me, is that there’s no easy way to balance over the thing unless you take one leg entirely out of your jeans.  Even with partial disrobing, I had to rest a tiny part of my weight on the lip of the raised portion.  I’m just not built that way.  Don’t even get me started about how much taking my shoes off in a public restroom squicks me out.

I can tick the floor-squat toilet experience off my bucket list now.  I don’t ever need to do that again.

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This pop-up beer garden showed up near the office, but I never got a chance to stop in.  I also didn’t ever see people inside until my very last week.  Sapporo is pretty tasty though, so I’m sure that woulda been tasty good fun.

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One of the buildings near the office has a traditional smoker’s aquarium.  These never fail to make me laugh.  The ventilation system is top notch, though-  I walked past this thing almost every day, and I never smelled smoke from inside.

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Inside the office, there’s a Shinto altar to wish for good business, complete with an English explanation.  I thought this was fascinating.

 

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Also in the office:  Complimentary hot and cold running water, green tea, barley tea, and (terrible) coffee.   I had a cup of the hot barley tea nearly every day-  I had never been exposed to barley tea before this trip, and I really enjoyed it.

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On days that I was in the office during normal business hours, we usually ate lunch in the cafeteria at the basement level.  The value is excellent-  I usually got a tremendous amount of food for no more than about five Yen.   For example, this meat dish, with rice, vegetable, miso soup, and a beverage was 4.90 yen.

 

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Similarly this plate with what I thought was three chicken nugget type things.  Imagine my surprise when the third one turned out to be fish instead of chicken!

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I can’t really remember what this one was, but it seems to be a basic noodle-meat-veggie dish.   The little pasta salad at the bottom was tasty.

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This one was a sort of pho-like noodle bowl, with a rice piece that had a seaweed wrap.

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Of all the cafeteria dishes I had, this one was my absolute favorite-  I love eggs like crazy, and the other parts were delicious, including the rice hidden beneath the top layer.  This is the only dish that I completely finished-  most of the others had some leftover food when I was done.  I noticed that my colleagues from the Tokyo office did not have this problem-  they all ate significantly faster than me, and they all cleared their plates entirely.  I suspect there’s a cultural thing where not clearing your plate is seen as wasting food, but I have to stop eating when I’m full or I feel absolutely terrible.

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Most of my time in the office was evening shifts, which meant that my food breaks had to use restaurants in the immediate vicinity.    Near the office, I found a delicious Thai resturant, for some great Pad Thai.

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There’s also any number of Italian restaurants.   This one in the Otemachi Financial Center has pasta over a stunningly delicious meat sauce.

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That same food court area contains a Gyoza (dumpling) shop named New York New York.  They were one of the few restaurants I visited which had an English menu, even if the translation might need a little bit of work.  What the hell is hairy crab meat?!

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Gyoza are damned tasty, don’t you think?

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My colleague liked this flavor packet quite a lot.  I tried it on my rice, and was disturbed to learn that it tasted like miso and seaweed, not like chicken.

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New York New York had a fun little photo opportunity.  Yup, the Statue of Liberty has chopsticks holding a Gyoza.  Why not?

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This is actually ramen noodles.   Everything I thought I knew about ramen was challenged in Japan, because the ramen there is amazing and flavorful and nothing whatsoever like the freeze-dried instant noodles I was familiar with.  This dish tasted fantastic.

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Sometimes, after a few days of unfamiliar (and often unidentifiable) food, it’s nice to just have something familiar.    Most of the places I ate alone involved a lot of pointing to get the desired food.  Subway had helpful visual choices, so it was more or less the same assembly-line approach to food that I was used to.

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This is a tuna-fish sub with a cookie and soft-drink.  This was almost identical to the meal I periodically ate in German Subway restaurants for the last few years.  Subway really doesn’t change that much from continent to continent.

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That’s enough food for right now, though.   Let’s take a little detour to meet this adorable pup, a little dog named Gran.

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Gran keeps watch over the Granpark building, which is where we had to go once during my trip for a meeting.

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The highlight of taking this meeting at Granpark was this pretty spectacular view from the eleventh floor.  Once more, you can see Tokyo Tower in the distance.  I promise I’ll get back to that in another post.

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This was another fun moment-  when we were on our way out, the building was having some sort of earthquake drill.  There’s a school in the vicinity, and all the children had been dressed in these little yellow hoods.  I’m not positive of their function, but if I had to guess, I would say that the hoods are to provide padding and protection in case an earthquake generates falling masonry.

Either that, or the children are all being trained to stand in for garden gnomes in their off time.

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Have you ever eaten at a Subway restaurant away from your home country?  Did you find it to be similar or different to your expectations?

Sleeping and Eating In Kanda

My base of operations while I was in Japan was a MyStays hotel near Kanda station.  My room was thirteen square meters, with a very basic kitchenette.  I had a tiny refrigerator, some cookware, a microwave/conduction oven, a hot plate, and a regular sink.  Pots, pans, knives, plates, chopsticks, and so forth were all provided.

The hotel had a service in which they brought you new towels and such every day.  They also brought a new kimono-esque bathrobe every day, which I never wore.  By the end of my trip, I was fairly annoyed with this part of the service, because I really don’t need new towels more than every second or third day.  Still, it was good service.

The bed is a fairly typical hard Japanese bed with a futon-style mattress.  I actually learned to enjoy it pretty quickly, and I slept very well while I was in the country.

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When I arrived, I spent the first twenty minutes or so deciding where I was going to keep everything for the five weeks of my stay.  There are rolling drawers under the bed, which helped enormously. I used the desk drawers as underwear and sock drawers.

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I traveled to Japan with a backpack which held my laptops, a rolling small suitcase which could be used as carry-on luggage, and a wheeled Skullcandy bag which could be used as a duffel with a shoulder strap or as a wheelie bag.   The handle on the Skullcandy bag was terribly weak, and it because clear very quickly that using it as a wheeled bag was terribly ineffective.  Lesson learned:  If you need multiple suitcases for a long trip, always go for the four-wheeled variety.  They’re significantly easier to navigate up the street when you have a lot of walking between your train station and your hotel.  After this trip, I gave the Skullcandy bag to a colleague and streamlined my personal luggage collection quite a bit.

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The room had a built-in desk, along with a television, a little device which allowed you to stream movies for a small fee, and a combination vcr/dvd player.  There was ample power as well as a direct Ethernet plug.    The little fridge on the right side of the photo was incredibly cold, which left me with bottles of water that were frozen solid.  This was helpful, though, because it got very hot outside as we nudged into June.

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The bathroom in the hotel room was a step up from the rest of the room, and I mean that quite literally.  The floor level of the bathroom was about seven or eight inches taller than the rest of the room.  It’s rather a miracle that I didn’t injure myself while stepping down from the bathroom.

The hotel provided basic soap, shampoo, body lotion, and conditioner, as well as a variety of other useful things.   There’s a valve on the bathroom sink which directs the water either to the sink or to the bathtub/shower, depending on your needs.

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The tub is tall enough for even someone of my height to submerge rather nicely, and the water spigot has clasps at both bath and shower height, so you can choose to do either one. This is a pretty nifty design, for such limited space.

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The toilet is western-style, as opposed to the older trench style toilets that I’ll talk about in a future post.   This is a very simple one, compared to some of the higher end toilets I ran into while I was in Japan.  I did try the water spout a few times, but don’t see the appeal.  I never found it to be more effective than regular toilet paper.  It didn’t really clean me, it just made my butt wet.

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It took me a few days to figure out what the heck the toilet flush mechanism meant-  one way is half a flush for when you’ve only deposited liquid.  The other direction is a full flush for more solid waste.  I just think the thing is grinning at me, secure in the knowledge that I can never remember which is which.

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But that’s enough about the hotel room.  I wanted to talk about three restaurants in the vicinity of Kanda station.  There were dozens of restaurants within walking distance of my hotel, and the variety of food I ate while in Japan was actually kind of amazing.

The first restaurant I experienced in the area was Bar Beco 2.

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I think the full name of the  place is actually “Pizza and Steak Bar Bec 02,” but we just called it Bec 02 for simplicity.

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Bec 02 is a tiny little slip of a restaurant at the intersection in front of Kanda station’s south entrance.  The entire downstairs of the restaurant is walled by these old wine crate sides.

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They have tiny amazingly delicious steaks.   The meats I ate in Japan were often delicious, which is stark direct contrast to the lackluster steaks I encountered throughout most of Europe.

The name of the place says Pizza and Steak, though, and I stopped here several times during my stay for these adorable tiny pizzas.

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Another delicious restaurant near Kanda station is Hiroshima Okonomiaki Big Pig.  We stopped here for lunch one day in my first week before heading into the office.

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The restaurant is a tiny affair with room for about a dozen people.  You have a small wooden bar in front of the cooking surface, and your food is served on the cooktop.

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Okonomiaki is a savory pancake filled with other stuff.  It’s not unlike a savory crepe.  There’s a lot of different varieties and they’re very tasty.

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I cannot for the life of me remember what all went into this one, but it was delicious.  The brown glaze on top is cooked soy sauce, I believe.  There are noodles and the pancake portion itself.  The portion was fairly large, and I did not succeed in finishing it.   Very tasty!

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The third restaurant I’m going to talk about in this post is actually a chain of fast-food restaurants which can be found all over Japan.  This is Matsuya.

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Specials on offer are frequently posted outside the door.

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You make your selection by putting coins in this machine and pressing a button.  You are then given a little card which the counter-person will take from you when you sit down.

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The decor is more or less what you’d expect from a fast food restaurant in Japan.  Bright lights, plenty of places to sit, and fast, efficient food.

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At each table, there’s a selection of spices and sauces, along with a tray of chopsticks.

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I chose a sort of beef over rice dish.  The brown sauce was spicier than I expected, and the rice was delicious.  The miso soup was just miso soup.  I don’t really like miso soup, so I left that alone.

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I had no earthly idea what this little device was during my meal, but I found out later from a colleague in the local office that it contains spices.  I’m glad I didn’t try it!  I’m kind of a wimp when it comes to burning-hot spice.

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This was another 23 of the original 489 photos from Japan.  There’s lots more to come!

Have you dined near Kanda station?  What sort of food did you have?